Some months ago, we suggested you visit Betlem, a small "gastronomic tavern" in Barcelona's Eixample Dret neighbourhood, headed by chef Víctor Ferrer. This week, we visit the recently opened Bícnic, Ferrer's new project, this time working with design studio Toormix. His objective is to evolve the concept of the food truck to an informal, relaxed restaurant in two flavours: "fast" and "slow".
The restaurant is next to Betlem, on the corner of carrer Girona and Consell de Cent. Despite seemingly large premises, only 48 people fit in the spaces for the two proposals. For the "fast" half, Víctor and the creatives from Toormix have set up a long bar with stools, for the slow, they've tried to make something evocative of the countryside with wooden tables, green walls, and columns looking like tree branches. As the Miguelines, we were most surprised by the three high tables in the kitchen. It could be an excellent Christmas present for a foodie friend...
As is to be expected, the gastronomic offerings for the fast and slow modes are different, but if there's any common thread, it's market produce, the search for flavour and a certain international vision. The fast version has a short menu, with salads and sandwiches and some hot dishes. In the slow version, the selection is wider and comprised of starters, first courses (10-20€; £9-18, $12-24), designed for sharing, main courses (12-25€; £11-22, $14-30), one each, and desserts (7€; £6, $8). The service is something shared by the two: friendly, informal and efficient.
During our visit, as we were going for dinner and wanted a little more calm, we went for the slow option. We started with the Súper-Ravioli (Super Ravioli), filled with beef cooked in red wine submerged in a shiitake mushroom broth. Interesting, with an elegant presentation and delicate taste. After, we ordered the Rotllets x-nem (X-nem rolls), fried, Vietnamese-style and filled with lamb and vegetables. Ideal for getting your hands dirty as you roll them with leaves of lettuce, mint and basil.
Rotllets x-nem
From the first courses we choose the tiradito de tonyina (tuna "tiradito", a Peruvian raw fish dish), light and with the sharpness of the leche de tigre sauce well balanced, perfect to set the stage for a Miquelín dish: Steak tartar de vaca i anguila fumada (steak and smoked eel tartar), served on half a bone, the idea being to mix the tartar with the roast marrow. For carnivores and cavemen, but it's an explosion of flavour. To be spooned down!
'Tiradito' de tonyina
Steak tartar de vaca
Of the mains we try the ratlla ratllada (striped ray), seared on the grill, accompanied with a soft black garlic alioli and a tasty rock fish "suquet" sauce. Doubtlessly, the combination is flavourful, although a different cut of fish with fewer bones might have made us enjoy it more. We end with the galtera de vedella (veal cheek), braised to perfection, super tender and accompanied by mushrooms and a tasty mushroom fricassee sauce. From the desserts, we recommend leaving room for the dense lingot de xocolata negra (dark chocolate ingot), with spiced cream and incredible drops of spiced oil.
Ratlla ratllada
Galtera de vedella
Lingot de xocolata
In short, it's a young project which still needs months of practice to fine-tune the two styles. It will be quite the challenge to consolidate the picnic concept with such hearty dishes, so complex and full of nuance and flavour. What we are sure of is the skill and culinary soundness of Víctor and his team, which will evolve Bícnic to success. In any case, we invite you to venture in to explore a new concept of the picnic. What are you waiting for?
| Score | ||
|---|---|---|
| Food | Wines | |
| 70 | 68 | |
| Service | Premises | |
| 69 | 69 | |
| Price | Miguelín Stars | |
| 40€ (£36/$47) |  |
|
| Per person: 2/3 first courses to share + 1 main course + dessert to share | ||
Where is Bícnic?
Address: C/ de Girona, 68, 08009 Barcelona
Telephone: (+34) 690 90 46 14
Website: www.bicnic.com
Opening times: From Tuesday to Saturday from 1pm to 3:30pm and from 7:30pm to 11pm.