The Miguelines are back in Sants. Something is cooking in the neighbourhood, as in recent months a number of restaurants with interesting culinary offerings have opened up. We think it might have something to do with La Mundana (link in Catalan), which we loved when we visited it 18 months ago, and might have have set the foundations for other restauranteurs to take a chance on this neighbourhood of Barcelona, somewhat forgotten in gastronomic terms.
This time, the offering is fresh off the grill. But don't expect the choices you've got used to in other grill-based Catalan restaurants. Jordi Bernús, the chef and co-owner, has a proposal to raise this cooking technique to a level of sophistication, elegance and subtelty worthy of mention.
The building itself, however, doesn't immediately reveal this sophistication. Although it's completely refurbished with modern furniture, it still keeps the simplicity of white walls and the original flooring of what was once a small neighbourhood farm. The most unique is the bar, with space for 6-8 diners, where you find the grill which Jordi has designed to measure and where you see him finishing the dishes his team prepares in the kitchen.
You need to go to Sants es crema with an open mind and a fellow gastronome for company. The aim is to enjoy a different idea of grilling. With this in mind, Jordi has designed a menu of 16 dishes, some component of all of which has passed over the heat of the coals. The dishes are split into two sections of starters (6-17€; £5-15, $6-20) and two sections of main dishes (15-21€; £13-18, $18-25), the idea being to share some 3 per person. The wine list is short, but with choices for all pockets.
As we Miguelins want to be able to give you good recommendations, we felt obliged to prepare our stomachs to try 11 dishes and 2 desserts. The truth is we found it hard to decide which not to taste. Let us tell you about our experience:
From the starters, we'll stick to three. The "Sardina marinada" (marinated sardine), for the balance between its ingredients and its plating. The "Coca de bonítol" (tuna coca), for the subtle smoking of the fish and its integration with the other elements. Finally, the "Escuma de boletus amb trufa negra" (mushroom foam with black truffle), for its powerful flavour and the creaminess of the whole, which wanted bread to mop it up.
Sardina marinada
Coca de bonítol
Escuma de boletus amb trufa negra
We believe that the mains are on a higher level and also want to highlight three of them. The "Arròs melós de papada fumada i rostes" (Rice with smoked jowl and bacon), for the sweetness of the rice, the light caramelisation of the sauce and the crunch in each spoonful. The "Colomí amb musclos en vinagre" (Young pigeon with mussels in vinegar), with the meat cooked exactly on the grill, juicy, crispy and tasty. You want to eat with your fingers! Third, the "Ostra escabetxada amb peus de porc" (Marinated oyster with pig's trotters), because we believe it sums up the restaurant's philosophy: tasty, unctuous and with a rascally twist combing an exclusive product with another more mundane.
Arròs melós
Colomí amb musclos en vinagre
Ostra escabetxada amb peus de porc
From the sweet options, we tried the "Sorbet de llimona" (Lemon sorbet), with an elegance and plating worthy of a Michelin star, and the "Crema Sants es Crema", a light foam with burnt sugar covering a base of mango, giving a curious combination of textures and temperatures.
Sorbet de llimona
Crema Sants és Crema
All in all, Sants es crema is a very young restaurant (it opened on 4th October) with some aspects still to be touched up, but it already reflects the strength and elegance of a chef with more than 10 years experience in the best kitchens around the world. The restaurant itself isn't at the level of the products, the chef, the dishes and the price, but for food-lovers, like you and us, we'll thoroughly enjoy the sophisticated, elegant fabrications which Jordi prepares on the grill. What are you waiting for?
| Score | ||
|---|---|---|
| Food | Wines | |
| 72 | 67 | |
| Service | Premises | |
| 66 | 64 | |
| Price | Miguelín Stars | |
|
40€ (£35, $48) |
 |
|
| Per person: 5-6 dishes to share + glass of wine | ||
Where is Sants es crema?
Address: C/ dels Comtes de Bell-Lloc, 118, 08014 Barcelona
Telephone: (+34) 932 22 96 44
Opening hours: From Tuesday to Friday from 1pm to 3:15pm and 8:45pm to 10:45pm. Saturdays from 1:30pm to 3:15pm and 8:45pm to 10:45pm. Sundays and Mondays shut.