Kak Koy: Japanese grill

Japanese food came to our land approximately one decade ago, surprising everyone with ingredients and preparations that were totally unfamiliar back then. Yet today California roll, ramen and sashimi are terms which catch no one off-guard, and we are familiar with them after having eating them infinite times in one of the countless Japanese restaurants that have cropped up.

However, if you are a true lover of raw food, the name Hideki Matsuhisa must ring a bell. He is a Japanese chef who has been working in Barcelona for 20 years now, where he has gradually built a small empire which includes everything from sushi bars – Shunka and Majide – to the more select haute cuisine of Koy Shunka, which earned a Michelin star.  The quality of these places has been amply recognised by food lovers.

Today we are focusing on his most recent project, Kak Koy, a discreet, minimalist restaurant where the grills take centre stage. The first thing that surprises us at the restaurant is the sober, pristine interior bare of any decoration, which can seem a bit cold. However, this is a way to avoid any distractions and to force the diners to concentrate on what really matters: the food.

A specific part of the kitchen (visible at all times from anywhere in the restaurant) stands out. It is the robatayaki, a kind of Japanese grill which, as we just said, is the star around which the majority of dishes in this venue orbit.

The set menu is made up of around 20 little dishes, some of which have passed through the flames, while others are simply raw. All are ideal for sharing. In terms of the beverages, we find a careful selection of wines, followed by a few Japanese beers and a curious list of sake painstakingly chosen by the team and perfect for pairing with the food. You simply must try this wonderful rice liqueur, which is still largely unknown around here. We dare you!

Since they want us to concentrate on the food, let’s be compliant. The first thing we are served is a grilled skewer of edamame – tender soy beans. It is a simple dish which takes on an intense and smoky flavour thanks to the flames.

Edamame skewer

Then comes a pair of Gillardeau oysters with shichimi, a mixture of Japanese spices; the oysters somehow retain all their liquor despite being cooked. We continue with octopus cooked at a low temperature accompanied by a toasted sesame sauce, a dish which we think has some room for improvement.

Gillardeau oysters with shichimi

Cooked octopus

And now we are entering the true taste bombs. Chicken drumstick and thigh yakitori with calçots (fire-roasted green onions) and Romesco sauce, the latter part from Catalan cuisine. There are no words to describe the extreme tenderness of this skewer. The crispy chicken skin brings an amazing contrast of textures to the dish. We did find the nod to Catalan cuisine unnecessary, as it is diluted among the other flavours, although we do appreciate the intention behind it.

Chicken drumstick and thigh yakitori with calçots

Calamari sushi with umeboshi – fermented plum – as we’ve never tasted it before. The way the flesh is cut removes any hint of stiffness from the skin, resulting in a tender, sublime calamari similar in texture to a sea cucumber. This morsel is worth framing.

Calamari sashimi with umeboshi

Grilled peas from Llavaneres with cauliflower over an emulsion of butter and soy sauce. Al dente, perfectly cooked, a dish that is served at Can Roca which we give a standing ovation here. Bravo!

Peas from Llavaneres

Tuna neck with a high fatty content that melts in the mouth. Ecstasy: pure product. Aubergines with red miso, very tasty with an olive flavour, good but a bit oily. And there’s more: Wagyu short ribs, not quite on par with the other dishes. And to finish the savouries, fun, unusual shiitake nigiri topped with wasabi stem: the closest thing to sushi you’ll find at Kak Koy.

Tuna neck

Wagyu short ribs

Shiitake nigiri

To conclude, we are offered a cake made with yuzu – a Japanese citrus fruit – topped with a crust similar to Catalan crème brûlée. It was a discreet ending, although that’s typical of this kind of cuisine.

Yuzu cake

Product, coherence and one common thread: fire. If you fancy some sushi, this isn’t your place, but if you love the Japanese world and want to explore its authentic essence, this is this temple for you, and at a reasonable price as well. Kak Koy offers an engaging experience which won’t let you down, we promise.

Alex Ruiz (@izcariel) has assisted us with this article.

Where is Kak Koy?

Address: Carrer de Ripoll, 16, 08002 Barcelona

Telephone: 933 02 84 14

Timetable: Monday 8 to 11 pm, Tuesday to Saturday 1:30 to 4 pm and 8 to 11 pm. Closed Sunday

Website: http://www.koyshunka.com/KoyShunka/home_KakKoy.html