In art, the updated copying of certain ancient styles is called neoclassicism. There is neoclassical painting, sculpture, music and architecture. In the sense that cooking is also an art - an ephemeral one, but definitely art - the act of studying and copying classical recipes, updated with techniques of the moment, could be perfectly defined as gastronomic neoclassicism. Today we are going to talk about a reversion to classical cuisine, but with a renewal in its approach, its prices and its details, and very well presented in a restaurant with a rich period look.
Rilke, which for our more veteran readers is located in the space once occupied by the classic Belchenea, is a restaurant with the look of "how things used to be". Situated in a grand old building, one floor up, in the middle of Barcelona's Eixample district and with interiors that offer more winks towards the past (parquet floor, velvet walls, curving sofas, high ceilings) than to modernity, lunch or dinner are worth it for the setting alone. The designer has hit the mark, creating a classic atmosphere, while also avoiding any feeling that it might be, if you'll allow us the license, covered in dandruff. Dining space for 60 people, with a lovely cocktail bar, two private spaces for 10 and 20 people respectively, it is ideal for encounters of the romantic, intimate, gastronomic or business kind. But be warned, you should not expect classical service. There are no parking valets or waiters who fill your glasses after each gulp.
The gastronomic proposal has been created by a young and intelligent team, showing deep respect to the foundations of classic cuisine, but at the same time looking to the future with ambition. Rafa Peña (Gresca) as an external advisor and Jaime Tejedor (ex-Saüc) in charge of the kitchen, are a real guarantee of humility, hard work, technique, knowledge and connection with the diner. In this case, they have interpreted that the gastronomy required by the venue is of a classical cut, and have confectioned a short menu (23 savoury dishes and 5 sweets), with classical references both in the entrées and in the meat and fish mains, without hollow frivolities or minimalism, but with complete refinement.
Squid carbonara
Parmentier with veal, oysters and onion
Mackerel with aubergine and crème fraîche
Lemon cake with cocoa ice cream
It's only two months since Rilke opened, and some dishes still need a finishing touch, and others will probably change. Let us tell you about a couple of them that seem especially representative. First the "Roast duck with salsify", which as you can see in the photo, suggests rigour, apparent simplicity and, therefore, the work is in product quality, the cooking and the sources. The other dish is "Saffron crème caramel", which may not offer great innovation, but you can understand that both youngsters and oldsters can be tempted by it.
Roast duck with salsify
Cream caramel of saffron, orange and almonds
Cuisine with classical references in a setting full of history. The former, taking shape under the guiding hands of some great gastronomical architects. The latter, in a venue from the grand old days - in fact, as the management of Rilke told us, it used to be the Soviet consulate during the Franco era! What better place then, to take a break as often as as you feel like it, from the spiral of modernity and avantgardism of the last decade which, as in all artistic disciplines, does not always improve on past successes.
| Score | ||
|---|---|---|
| Food | Wines | |
| 73 | 71 | |
| Service | Premises | |
| 70 | 82 | |
| Price | Miguelín Stars | |
| 35€ (£31, $41) | ||
| Per person: 2 entrées to share +1 main +1 dessert | ||
Where is Rilke?
Address: C/ Mallorca, 275, 08008 Barcelona
Telephone: (+34) 937 64 89 52
Web: www.rilkebcn.com
Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday from 1:30pm to 4pm; and Tuesday to Saturday from 8:30pm to 2am